An entry in the TFS Travel Journal
Not exactly the post-plane-sleep night we’d wanted, with the clock radio going on at 4:40am, a tennis match going on at 7am, and a call at 8:30 reminding us to bring the box to the front desk. Wendy, at least, managed to overcome all that and slept till after 10, while Milton read up and planned out the next few days. We eventually got on the (left side of the) road and headed for the Coromandel Peninsula, a 40 mile by 15 mile piece of land with a 3,000 foot mountain range running up the middle. We drove for about 2 hours before arriving at Colenso Orchard and Herb Garden for lunch. That drive was lovely and green, passing through rolling hills (filled with cows and sheep, of course) and with frequent views down to the ocean along the curvy coastline. All very much like Scotland or England’s Lake District, especially as it was often drizzly and overcast today.
Our lunch spot was the perfect find! A little country general store filled with knick-knacks (we bought a little three-part round wooden box-within-a-box set with hand painted topiary scene on the lids), preserves (including kiwi jam), honey, dried flowers, and some large sleeping dogs. We had a panini of ham, cheese and pesto, a phylo pastry cake with mushrooms and cheese, minestrone and delicious hot chocolate served in a bowl. For dessert we took with us a local specialty called a chocolate slice. It was a large chunk of chocolate cookie, with shortbread cookies crumbled throughout; we loved it and will make every attempt to hunt down the recipe! We then drove a bit up the Eastern coast, which looks down upon a sweeping view of the ocean, then took an unpaved road heading across the peninsula.
The mountains that form the spine of the area are steep and thickly wooded, but incongruously (to us, anyway) much of the forest is tropical type plants, including palms and huge ferns which are sometimes over 100 feet high. We stopped at the Raparua Watergardens, a large garden of many local plants and flowers with ponds, streams and a lovely tiered waterfall (Raparua meaning “running water”) At the car park, we were greeted by several friendly quacking ducks, then when we left, Wendy crumbled some of our ginger cookies and fed them as they honked in gratitude while devouring every crumb. As we walked the loop walks, there were scattered around many little wooden signs with pithy philosophical thoughts (”I desired all things that I may enjoy life; I was given life that I may enjoy all things”) that seemed perfectly in keeping with the serene setting, as were the many little rock constructs that were placed here and there. We’ll definitely be revisiting here often through reflections in our minds, as one of the signs suggested.
It was then a short drive to the Square Kauri Tree. After a 175 meter walk (mostly up steps) from the roadside, we arrived at the tree: so called for its shape (well, its basically square), this tree is over 1,200 years old, 130 feet high, but is only the 15th largest in the peninsula. (who’s job was it to figure that out?). Kauri’s once dominated the forests here, but they were logged almost completely over the last 200 years; the Maori prized them, as a large one could be carved into one canoe that would hold 100 men. There was also a great view across the wooded valley to the Camel’s Back peaks of the mountains. In fact, all today as we drove we stopped frequently to take pictures and just to attempt to absorb the myriad varied scenes of oceans, coastline, green carpeted hills, and forests. We also continued to love the mild temperature and to marvel at how few people or cars we saw in this so-beautiful area for the entire day.
We then drove to the West coast and headed up to the town of Coromandel. This drive was all along the winding coastline of black sand beaches with large volcanic craggy rocks out in the water. We arrived in the little town, picked up some fruit at a market (where we got into a conversation with the ultra nice cashier who, like so many people we’ve met, once she learned we were from NY wanted to know about our trip, how we’re liking it, where we’re going, etc. It is a much-appreciated difference that instead of being perpetually beseiged by beggars and incessant, swarming peddlars of junk we now get into conversations with friendly people who won’t stop talking! BTW — in addition to enjoying being where everyone speaks english, we’re loving having the ability to eat the food, drink the water and breath the air with comfort!) and stopped for dinner.
We had the local oysters (good and meaty), some mussel-cakes (like crab-cakes), a pumpkin soup and some vegetables. Nothing special, except for the oysters. We then drove the (very long) two hours back to the hotel in the dark (street lights haven’t arrived here yet). The first 1 1/2 hours were along the curving coastline road, and with the rain, narrow roads and driving on the left, Milton deserves special commendation. Finally, back home to rest!