An entry in the TFS Travel Journal
This morning was Milton’s turn, and he slept over 9 1/2 hours while Wendy read patiently. We drove off into town for a day of urban exploration. We parked on Queen street and walked around a few stores (boy, there sure are a lot of outdoors-equipment stores here!) before looking for a lunch spot. The area is mostly commercial, uninteresting stores though a few blocks away were several galleries and the Auckland art museum with, consequently, several arty cafes and bookshops. We did some shopping for basic provisions then wandered in circles trying to find a Fodor’s-recommended restaurant. We finally were told that it no longer exists, so we got another reference and went there. Certainly not a place we’ll be recommending, as the service was painfully slow and then the waitress wiped some spilled juice from the table onto Milton’s pants.
We then walked around the area, finishing up in Albert Park - a pristine little park atop a hill with lovely fountains and paths among the greenery. Some of the larger trees here were like ones we saw yesterday along the coast, with enormous octopus-like roots wrapped around large rocks or just spreading out atop the ground. We then drove (it’s a rather large city, too large for walking everywhere) over to the Parnell section, sort of their Soho. Nothing really motivated us to get out, so we just cruised by very slowly then drove over to the waterfront. Although we passed several movie theatres, all that was playing was American movies from 3 months ago which we’d already seen.
The waterfront area, however, is the highlight of the city. The bay around which the city sits (which will be the sight of the America’s Cup race in 2000; NZ being the defending champion) is huge, and filled with sailboats, windsurfers and even some waterskiers. Along the coastline runs an inviting pathway for biking and jogging which goes on and around for miles and miles and miles. There are also beaches all around the city, with several nice ones right along this esplanade, as well as many parks and stretches of green. Although we saw lots of families and people enjoying it all, it was nicely un-crowded. This must be one happening place in summer!
We drove along the bay for a while, then went back and stopped at Kelly Tarlton’s Water Experience. He seems to have been the Jacques Cousteau of New Zealand (a country with quite a history of explorers, including Edmund Hillary who also went to the South Pole in 1957 on an expedition) and built this sea-world-like homage to local marine life. Aside from the usual aquatic displays, we went on a 18-minute snowcat ride simulating a drive through part of Antartica (New Zealand is quite prominent in Antartican research and preservation) including a quite-realistic simulation of being stuck in a disorienting white-out, saw dozens of penguins, including several only a few months old which are actually the same size as the adults, but are covered in fluffy brown feathers. Then there was one of those underwater clear plexi-glass walkways, though this one was much, much longer and larger than any we’d seen previously. As usual, quite fascinating to be next to and below so many rays, sharks, huge lobsters, eels, and the whole gamut of local fish; it was basically scuba diving while staying dry.
We then zipped over to the docks and took the 5:30 ferry to Devonport. Devonport is sort of their Sausalito, though part of the reason for taking the 10-minute ferry is the wonderful, panoramic view it affords of Auckland. It was indeed fabulous, especially as the sun was just setting over their bay bridge, casting a glow on the city buildings with their twinkling lights just coming on. We walked around Devonport, seeing some cute, interesting shops and many tempting restaurants, but opted to take the ferry back and eat dinner on the other side. While we were waiting for the boat, we walked upstairs in the (usual and familiar) dock complex of shops and restaurants, and found a wedding reception in one of the restaurants with a grand view of the city across the water — all quite reminiscent of our own Waters-Edge experience (especially as it was the equivalent weekend for this hemisphere!).
Dinner was at a Fodor’s recommendation that was still existant and fortunately so. As it was on the water in a prime location, it was quite the scene. We started with oven-roasted local mussels and clams, which were both big and tasty. Then a wonderful grilled salmon steak with a ginger-port sauce, and a large platter of local shellfish species, all of which were remarkably fresh and flavorful. Along with it all, we enjoyed several local Chardonnays, as they feature 1/2-glass tastings of a tremendous variety of wines. It was then time for the drive back home, though this night on a dry, uncrowded, four-lane motorway, and we were home in less than 45 minutes.
We felt as though we’d seen most of what there is to see of Auckland, though much of its charm is in the plethora of virtually year-round outdoor activities. As it is built into small hills surrounded by beautiful bodies of water, it reminded us of Oslo and of Capetown, as they are all reasonably cosmopolitan, but comfortably small and accessible. Again, we must comment on the friendliness of the natives, from the meter-maids (who told us they were quitting soon, so we could just park anywhere) to tonight’s waitress, as everyone seems so eager to help and so sincere.