Sort of a rush job this morning as we were expected to vacate by 9:30. We were moving along at our own pace when Sammie stopped by to read the telephone meter and we chatted for about 30 minutes. Then we started really trying to get assembled when the maid came by around 10 and was none too happy. We let her start in the kitchen, which we’d hardly used, then packed up and left.
Wendy then drove (yea!) us to Montalcino (as in Brunello di) in our new too-small piece of tin. Fascinating that as soon as we passed Siena, the countryside changed markedly. Instead of steep, forested valleys with sharp, long ridges, it was now gently rolling hills of mostly brown dirt, looking freshly plowed.
Montalcino, Italy was a delightful, not too comercial, medium size stone town atop the tallest hill around. We went first to the small castle just outside of town, where we walked on top of the wall running along the perimeter, then up one of the towers for some great views (and pictures) of the whole undulating valley. Inside the castle, there was a little restaurant and shop, so we got two different Brunellos with some bread and cheese, and sat out in the courtyard of the castle. The Casanuovo Brunello was great, and the aged cheese was equally flavorful; what a civilized snack.
We then walked a bit of the town (not as easy as it sounds in these steep hill towns), but everything was closed so we headed out to find the lunch place Sammie had recommended. We followed her directions, looking for signs to one of the wineries and ended up getting to that winery and then into some farmer’s back yard. We went back to the winery, which was of course closed for two hours, and, realizing we were basically lost, audibly vented our frustration (well, one of us did) which caused someone from the winery to lean out of a window and direct us using Italian and hand signs.
We actually found it, and had a fabulous lunch of appetizer misto (some ok crostini, good cold meats, and really good bruschetta), penne pomodoro and penne with an interesting salsa verde della casa, duck w/Brunello sauce, osso bucco, and a great ‘92 Arginera (or something like that) Brunello. The restaurant, Pieve de Sigismondo was an old farmhouse and couldn’t have been more charming (rock and mortar walls, big-beamed ceilings) or in a more picturesque location looking out over the sun-drenched vineyards.
Then it was 2km down the road to the Banfi winery and glass-bottle museum. Both were worth seeing, as we were able to taste some decent offerings that may even merit some U.S. searching. Wendy then reassumed her Napa role as the designated driver, and we plowed ahead along Autostrada and carriage road to Portaria, finally arriving (after one ridiculous erroneous detour) around 7.
We were met by our hosts, Virginia and John, who led us up to the gate of this walled stone Italian city where we parked the car then dragged all luggage up and around many streets to this place. And what a place!! Built around 1600, and recently renovated, three levels (not counting the catacombs, which John promises to show us before departing), three bedrooms, 3 1/2 baths, living room, dining room, fully equipped kitchen, 4 fireplaces, beautiful Italian antiques and ceramics, sloping ceilings, walls two feet thick, a private garden, and fabulous views over the whole valley from many windows. (we’re also not the only ones loving this place — during our tour, we saw two reasonably large black scorpions (thinking of you, GG!) on the white walls, which John considerately removed with the pincers from the fireplace) The only thing missing is a phone, so we have to walk across the cobblestones and up the stone steps to their home to use the phone for our nightly emailing. And the two of them!! Late 50s, originally Canadian, but have lived mostly in Italy since the ’60s. She’s a whirlwind of talk, he’s more reserved and remarkably personable. Definitely more about them later. . .
Unpacked, typed in our lovely private study with a refreshing breeze, and studied up on what to do for the next week.