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Casa del Confessiore, Portaria, Italy - Travel Journal - Wednesday, October 8, 1997


An entry in the TFS Travel Journal

As breakfast was included in the price of the Hotel cell we slept in, we met in the tiny breakfast room at 9, enjoying the extra sleep due to our already being here! Unquestionably, the saddest hotel breakfast we’ve consumed, with some not-homemade pastries, packaged jams, and coffee; then set off to explore this unique city.

We first went to the Duomo and soaked that in as well as the remains of the 4th or 5th century church whose ruins were discovered, and preserved, below the present duomo floor. We then admired the bronze baptistry doors, and toured the Bargello, now the National Museum of Sculpture, which also included some noteworthy armour and weapons, and some beautiful, rich painted and detailed colorful ceramic plates, along with all the fabulous Italian sculpture.

Adam and Milton then went off to climb the dome of the Duomo as Karen and Wendy did their own thing. The line was a bit too long and it had gotten hot as hell outside (and we were still wearing the clothes from yesterday when it was cool and mountainous!) so we climbed the 463 steps of the bell tower instead which afforded basically the same view - the stupendous panorama of the city and surrounding hills - with no lines.

As we went to meet for lunch, Milton was so sweltering and so uncomfortable that he stopped in everywhere desparately trying to find a tee-shirt to buy and change into. (So desperate, that he actually stopped in the Disney store, but just couldn’t bring himself to buy anything) Finally, Wendy sent him to a stand in the Piazza Republica, where he got a Tuscany Sunflower tee, and an official Florence Soccer jersey, in purple, the color of Florence. (The vendor seemed miffed when I asked about a green one, saying that it was for the goalie from whatever team that was; he couldn’t quite grasp that I only cared about the color, not the player). Thus more comfortably outfitted, we were able to enjoy lunch.

We dined at Ristorante Paoli, not to be confused (although we did) with Trattoria Paoli two blocks away. We started with two heaping plates drawn from the seafood/roast vegetable antipasto cart. Lots of mussels, clams, roast peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, octopus, artichokes and onions in a flavorful olive oil. Then: tagliatelle pesto, rigatoni w/a light gorgonzola cream sauce, some enormous asparagus w/paramesan cheese, a perfect veal scallopini w/mushrooms, a perfect chicken cacciatore, and a grilled sole, all with a nice Italian chardonnay.

We saved room for some gelato, which we picked up nearby then enjoyed immensely while walking the shopping streets and the Ponte Vecchio. Did a little shopping, a little sightseeing, then ended up at the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens. As Karen was dealing good-naturedly with the whopping cold Adam had given her, we just ascended the gardens and enjoyed all their wonderful, peaceful views. (much appreciated in a city whose noise level really assaults you)

Then a taxi (for the first time with a driver with good english and a humorous outlook on Italian life) back to the hotel to retrieve our car and speed home. Escaping the city was not too much of a problem, and soon we were on the road doing 140+ for the two hours it took to return to our wonderful sanctuary.

John then came over and showed us the fascinating Roman catacombs they had discovered under this house. We dined on our bounty of the other day, and relaxed for the evening.

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Tags: Travel Memoir