An entry in the TFS Travel Journal
(you know, we’re all used to hearing various noises now and then in the night, but it’s still pretty strange lying in bed and hearing motor boats and lapping water literally right outside your window)
Mmmm, another breakfast of assorted pastries on the road. First stop of the day was a clothing store where Milton got a way cool Missoni-like sweater and a big, beautiful multi-colored scarf that Wendy actually thinks she’ll get to wear. Then to a shop that had come highly recommended by a highly reputable source, and was a delight. Wendy picked up two wonderful silk scarves and had a lovely conversation with the voluble owner. We then headed toward the boat to Murano, but stopped en route at the church of I Gesuti. What a spectacular, enormous baroque interior, especially given how unobtrusive the facade is. All light gray marble inlaid with rich green marble, with columns and porticos of marble that had been carved and polished into twisting and draping shapes. Wow. Then onto the ferry to San Michele, the city’s cemetary island. We walked about, seeing some beautiful mausoleums and appreciating the tranquility, then hopped aboard the boat for the 2 minute ride to Murano, Italy.
We had absolutely perfect weather for strolling this nice little island, world-famous home to a mind-numbing quantity of glass shops; sort of the Deruta of glass. They’re particularly known for their rich, jewel-like coloration and creations, everything from vases to the most magnificent chandoliers We perused ’till we reached overload, then lunched in the outdoor garden of a local trattoria. We had a good 4-cheese macaroni (though we could taste only the gorgonzola), a fried mixed-seafood assortment (surprisingly good, especially with some vinegar shaken on liberally), and a top-notch funghi pizza. The Italian beer went perfectly with it all. We visited their glass museum, and very much enjoyed all 15 minutes we devoted to it. Then back to the stores until, like repeating the same word over and over until it loses all meaning, we reached terminal absorption. We ended up buying just a few small items, which will sufficiently serve as reminders of our experiences here.
We then deftly capitalized on our mastery of the vaporetto system to get right (more or less) to the Hotel Cipriani, located on the top of a small island just across from the Piazza San Marco. What an oasis of secluded luxury! We walked the grounds and interiors (using their bathrooms, of course), then sat in the cocktail lounge and enjoyed a drink, accompanied by three scoops (strawberry, vanilla, dark chocolate) of their best-in-the-world gelato; all while being keenly aware of how great it is to be a grown-up and have alcohol and ice cream for dinner. We then deftly took the hotel’s private boat across to San Marco and rode the vaporetto home to pack up and plan for tomorrow’s move to the Veneto and the foothills of the Dolomites.
(We also became aware that of all the traveling we’ve done, this is the one place that we most look forward to returning to, to further explore and experience)