An entry in the TFS Travel Journal
Nothing like getting one’s vacation off to the right start with eleven hours of flying (NYC-Miami-Santiago), topped off with a drug-induced sleep at a 45-degree angle. Met the Southwind representative at the airport and were whisked to the Torremayor, where we were given a small room with a small bed, instead of the suite we had reserved. Despite our vouchers’ confirming that, it took an hour to ascertain that there had been some sort of screw-up, but we at least moved to a nicer room, with two beds.
We then executed our usual post-jet-lag routine: Wendy napped while Milton went for a walk, buying lots of bottled water (and some Washington red delicious apples!) at the nearby Almac grocery, which was quite nice. After starting “The Flanders Panel” lounging in the hotel lobby, he then joined Wendy in dreamland.
Thus modestly refreshed, we set off for lunch at Aqui Esta Coco for some of Chile’s best seafood. Turned out to be quite excellent: appetizers were large prawns grilled to perfection and machas (Chilean razor clams) baked w/parmesan cheese. The clams were great, as was the sauce which we soaked up with our rolls. Entrees were two local fish specialities - a corvina stuffed with crab with a spinach cream sauce and a conga steamed with light soy/tomato sauce; both were subtle and divine. We also enjoyed a 1/4 bottle of some Chilean white wine that was so good and light that we ordered a second. (It came in the cutest little bottle with a screw top) For dessert, Milton enjoyed the appetizer that they’d forgotten to bring beforehand, the baby eels in oil. They looked like they were picked from a handful of fresh garden soil, but actually tasted rather bland. We had a nice chat with one of the very friendly waiters, who touted how beautiful the South of Chile is, while being noticeably restrained about Santiago. We soon saw why.
We took a taxi to the Museo Precolombino, the premier showcase of Precolombian artifacts. Not exactly our earthenware vessel of tea, but interesting to see the well-preserved stoneware, carved wooden pieces, and rich colored textiles, some over 3,000 years old. We then walked to the Plaza Armas, one of the main squares. Quite the bustling scene, with the usual portrait artists, food carts, etc. We stopped in La Catedral de Santiago, a long and beautiful church. After touring Italy, the mecca of churches, it was nice to see such a beautiful one with a Latin flavor. We then strolled through all their various markets, which seemed to be endless. A quite typical second-world scene of fresh (?) produce, meats, fish, flowers, pet foods, assorted crap, etc. All in all, we found it a fairly dirty city (pollution is evidently a real problem) with not much to recommend it, though the view of the imposing Andes only 35 miles away is scenic.
We attempted to walk to the Bellevista neighborhood, but it was just too damn hot, and we were too damn irritable from our traveling, (despite being happily back in shorts/Tevas and sleeveless summer girl clothes) so we taxied back to our air-conditioned room for an evening of reading and TV, catching the majority of Mr. Holland’s Opus on HBO Ole.
Note: even though we’re roughly the same longitude as New York, the time is somehow 2 hours later, so it stays light untill after 9:00.