An entry in the TFS Travel Journal
We awoke from a great sleep here in the wilderness. Breakfast was fine, and at least we could sit at our own table. Though it was cloudy, Barbara at the front desk said that it was supposed to clear later but would probably rain tomorrow, so if we were going to go to the glacier, today was the day.
We booked an 11:00am heli-hike trip, then when we mentioned to her how we could hear our neighbor’s conversations through our walls, it turned out that it was the hard-of-hearing older couple, and they were leaving today anyway. We quickly put on our capaline and drove off back up north to Fox Glacier. We arrived and though it was still not clear whether we’d take off or not, we were fitted for the absurdly heavy hobnail boots (though without the multi-colored mirrors) we’d wear out on the glacier. We piled into the van (5 Asian women, Steve the 33-year-old from our Lodge, and an English couple) and drove a few km to the helicopter pad. We then boarded the little choppers (5 in each) and zipped up to midway up the glacier (which extends down from a large ice field and is about 350 meters deep and set between two large rocky mountain ranges). The ride was about 10 minutes, and included some cool banking and dipping and turning (which Wendy closed her eyes during) before landing on the small platform on the ice. We got out, strapped on our crampons, and spent the next two hours trooping around on the glacier.
It was not always easy going (at least not for both of us), requiring concientious effort and deliberate stepping. But, of course, the sights were amazing! (and the sky was an unreal deep blue) We saw large tunnels in the ice (one of which we walked through), deep narrow fissures we could peer into, pools of deep electric-blue water, and the myriad shapes of the crystallized ice. As the clouds were beginning to descend, Tony the guide radioed for us (and him) to be choppered out a tiny bit early. We’d certainly gotten the gist, so it was alright with us. The ride back was short and sweet, with a grand sweeping view of the Cook valley spread out before us, sunlit beneath a low cloud cover. Upon arriving back (and paying them), we were presented with certificates which we’ll probably not be saving, but their inscription will live on here: “This is to certify that [Milton Lewin and Wendy Marder] did walk the icy slopes of the FOX GLACIER, did subject the leg muscles to the wearing of a pair of 15lb nailed boots, did brave the inclemency of the South Westland climate and did endure the rambling discourses of the guides.”
We shared the lunch the Lodge had packed for us, then drove the 1 hour back home. Though it was an exhilirating day, we were both ready for a nap, so we curled up with our good books (”The God of Small Things” and “Angle of Repose”) and relaxed until it was time to shower and head to dinner.
There were only 6 tonight - the Bechtel couple and their son, Colin, and us. Colin, a 32-year-old Englishman, had an even more interesting travel story than we did! He is 3/4 done with a walk from literally one end of New Zealand to the other, and he’s sponsored by Scholastic which posts his information on their website [www.scholasticnetwork.com, click on New Zealand]. Previously, he and three friends walked across Iceland, and in 1988/9 he walked across the entire U.S. by himself. He’s now married, with a 2-year-old son, and he and his wife just finished doing molecular biology research in Nashville, but will return to England to teach and live. He certainly kept us well entertained throughout dinner with his stories. Dinner was local venison (which was so good Wendy actually ate some) with turnip puree, local salmon (delicious) and steamed veggies. Dessert was a yummy trifle and a good coffee cake. We then returned to our little room for the evening.