An entry in the TFS Travel Journal
Enjoyed breakfast in the loveliest little dining room. Pretty floral plates of differing patterns on each table, along with big ceramic creations in the shapes of cakes, bunches of asparagus, etc. which we’ll be investigating the availability of tomorrow.
Set off toward the Dolomites, Italy taking the scenic route through the San Boldo pass toward Belluno. (in fact, to say this day was “scenic” is like saying we had some pasta during this trip) As it was getting near the let’s-all-close-we’re-not-in-business-to-actually-make-any-money time, we stopped in Belluno, Italy and wandered the pretty town in search of picnic fixins. The town, as all around here, was very much an Alpine chalet type of village set in the shadow of enormous peaks rising all around. We found a fine bakery and stocked up, then went back to a place we’d driven by earlier which had lured Wendy in with a giant pumpkin in front. Turned out to be a delightful little butcher/grocery, and so we stocked up the goody bag for the car and today’s picnic basket all with the help of the nice and friendly young girl (who we think was the daughter of the owner) behind the counter. Then we drove up to Cortina D’Ampezzo, an allegedly too-chic resort, with the idea of asking the tourist info place for a good spot to hike and picnic.
Don’t know how chic it is, when we got there everything was closed, including, of course, the tourist information service. Sure saw a lot of ski schools and shops, though. It is in a most pretty setting - in a valley with sheer rock peaks rising several thousand feet all around. We trusted our instincts and drove up to the Passo di Falzarego, about 15 km west of Cortina. Right at the pass (which was at 2100 meters), there was a cable car going about 700 meters virtually straight up; naturally, Milton hopped right on.
Stupendous views all around from the summit, of stark craggy whitish-gray cliffs and peaks off in literally all directions, with the snow capped Alps way off in the distance. The weather was cool and perfect, and the sky was the most remarkable brilliant blue behind the peaks. We set off hiking from behind the restaurant/shop at the pass, and went basically straight up for about 30 minutes, arriving (quite out of breath at this altitude) at what was unquestionably one of the ten best picnic spots on the earth.
We dined (along with two large black birds who requested, then enjoyed our leftovers) on fabulous food (salami, Italian breads, chicken breast, different cheeses, vegetables and the best grilled chicken leg (seasoned with truffles and herbs) of the trip), under the warming sun, while attempting to soak in the views (neverending mountain ranges and valleys in all directions, with no other people anywhere to be found) that basically caused us to use up an entire roll of film.
We strolled back down and got on the road. Gets awfully dark awfully fast in these valleys, but we were home by 7:30, and spent the evening luxuriating in our cozy charming room.