La Giostra (Via Borgo Pinti 12/r, Florence, Italy) is one of those places that one learns about via word of mouth, which of course ensures it’s going to be a great place to dine. I learned about it from a friend who traveled to Florence and ate there. He was told about it by someone who recommended it, and I have subsequently passed on the info to anyone I know going to Italy.
For starters, La Giostra is not easy to find as it is not a tourist restaurant. It is actually tucked into a narrow alley way, so you’d never know about the place from just walking by (hence the need to be told about it). The owner claims to be a prince of a place that I’ve never heard of, and he’s quite a charming and eccentric character. He is a tall, rail-thin fellow with a flash of white hair that is clipped at his shoulders. After dining there twice in a row, I spotted him riding his bicycle through the streets with his chef’s hat still firmly on.
The place has both indoor and outdoor seating, but it is very tiny. I prefer the outdoor platform as there are wonderful flowers and candlelight to accompany your meal. It is dimly lit, so it makes for quite a romantic atmosphere–but kind of tough to read the menu, if you’re eyes are anything like mine. The friendly wait staff, who speak very good English, make ordering a breeze. They bring you a complimentary plate of fantastic mini hors d’oeuvres to start you off.
Be sure to order a bottle of wine from the cellar, as the so-called prince will personally come to your table to decant it for you in a very elaborate manner–swishing it around and holding it up to the candlelight. It’s kind of like a little show, and memorable. The wine list here, by the way, is phenomenal and it is the right place to splurge a little and order a Barolo.
There are new additions to the menu monthly, and the pasta is handmade here daily. The risotto is by far the creamiest I’ve ever had on Earth, and the list of appetizers is so delightful that you may not make it to the entrees. The bread was to die for, with it’s flavorful side of olive oil. I was thrilled to finally have some tasty bread, as you may find that in Italy it is actually quite tasteless and a bit dry. Italians use their bread to push the food up onto the fork, and think it’s silly to fill yourself up on the doughy stuff when there’s a feast right there on your plate.
They are well-known for their ravioli, and offer quite a few varieties stuffed with everything from cheeses, veggies and even shrimp. There are quite a few meat cuts including veal, which is unbelievably tender. Seafood and fresh fish are also available and wonderful. Last, you will be teased with a large dessert list to accompany your Italian coffee. My favorite was a very simple Sorbetto di Limone (lemon sorbet) that polished my palate without leaving me feeling over-stuffed.
Truthfully, we ate at plenty of spots while in Italy, but La Giostra was tops. You get a terrific meal at a fair price, with all the Italian ambiance you’d expect, and all without feeling like you’re sitting in a tourist trap.
Be sure to keep the word of mouth going, and tell a friend I told you about it.