An entry in the TFS Travel Journal
We were startled into awakedness by the clock/radio whose radio/alarm went off at 5:45am. We succeeded in shutting it off (a surprisingly difficult task), then finally fell back asleep with a vengeance. We slept through breakfast and awoke for real around 9:45. We then set off for a day of exploration, walking into town.
First stop was the South African National Gallery, which had an exhibit of the architecture of homes in paintings, as well as some African tribal art. Unfortunately, many of the rooms were bare and awaiting new installations, so it was a short visit. We then strolled among the central gardens of the city, which are remarkably serene and green. There’s an adjacent formal flower garden, with many different colored roses still in bloom, as well as some large hydrangeas. The park extends for many blocks, and contains a small aviary and some trelleses draped with vines. Particularly memorable were the ficus trees, which were just enormous in both height and breadth.
We then strolled St. Georges mall, a pedestrian walkway of shops, with some performing artists along the way. First was a choral group, then a block up was three young men and three women doing tribal type dances playing tribal music. That was fun to watch! Then it was over to the Greenmarket, a large market of many stalls selling local clothing, artifacts, crafts, etc. We stopped to enjoy a guy playing tenor sax, featuring many of our favorites (Girl From Ipanema, My Way) then bought a great African-patterned cap, some little malakite tchotchkies, and some great polo shirts by Milton’s new favorite designer label, the eponymous “Dead Beat”. Wendy picked up some patterned socks and got into a discussion with the sock lady, who was white and who spoke with genuine fear about the overt violence that was becoming so prevalent in the country. Though she said Capetown was the most enlightened city, she was concerned enough for her children to be thinking about leaving the country.
This was a different side of the conversation we’d had with the driver who picked us up from the airport yesterday, who was black and told us that a few years ago he wouldn’t have been allowed to have that job. He was obviously pleased with recent events, but as we passed through The Flats (endless rows of shanty-town shacks on the outskirts of the city, a result of the forced relocation of so many blacks in the ’60s) he seemed almost despairing of how the country will ever rescue itself. When we said it was certainly a fine line that had to be walked to remedy the past wrongs while retaining the capital (intellectual and financial) necessary for growth, he seemed quite well aware of that tense dynamic.
We were at that point quite hungry, so we set off for a restaurant. After walking several blocks, we found that like most restaurants in this town, it was closed for Saturday lunch. So we set off for the Muslim quarter of town (the Bo-Kaap) and a recommendation from our constant companion, Fodors. It was a bit of a trek to find it, but we were well rewarded! The neighborhood is interesting, set along some rather steep hills, with arab-looking houses all colored with different pastel shades. Lunch was at a Malay (similar to Indian, but slightly different spices) style restaurant, Biesmiellah, which was Muslim so didn’t serve any alcohol. We started with a few samosas and some chili bits (potatoes rolled in herbed chili powder then baked), then shared some lamb tikka with rice and chicken curry with roti (flat bread). Both were two of the best, most flavorful dishes of the trip! We also sampled some delicious desserts - dates stuffed with almonds and tiny sweetened vermicelli noodles.
We then taxied off to the Table Mountain cable car, passing some very nice houses rising up the foothills. The cable car is round, holds about 50 people, and the floor rotates one complete revolution in the 4 minutes or so it takes to ascend, so everyone can see the whole panorama. From the top, the view is indeed breathtaking. We were blessed with a crystal clear and sunny day (around 80), which allowed us to take in the Cape of Good Hope, the city and all its suburbs, the deep blue Atlantic and Indian oceans, and much of the coastline and beaches extending far to the north and east. We spent an hour or so walking some of the different paved and rocky paths atop the mountain, talking with a young couple from Pretoria on their honeymoon, and a couple from Tasmania, the husband of which was wearing a Wallace and Gromit tee shirt.
We had seen enough sights for the day, so we headed back to our little inn, where we stayed for the evening, with Wendy reading in the bedroom, and Milton reading and dozing in the reclining easy chair in our little living room.